Oetsu
When I began making this costume, the biggest challenge was the trench coat body warmer. I made a pattern for 1/2 the back and one side of the front. With the fabric folded over doubled, I cut out a whole section for the back, front and its lining simultaneously. I also cut out the stuffing (WADDING) at the size as the pattern, Minus the seam allowance. I decided that for it to look accurate I would double up the wadding.
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I pinned and tacked all the sections together inside out so that I could get a feel for it. I also, with the pins and tacks in place flipped right way round to see if it had enough body to match the reference image.
I sewed by machine all the layers, around the open edges, trapping the wadding inside, while the piece as inside out, thus hiding the seams. I then proceeded to make the lower and back details. After which I quilted the whole coat.